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CHICAGO MAGAZINE/August 2008
So which word doesn't belong? It was a trick question. |
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DAILY HERALD | by Izidora Angel UNION'S PIZZA WILL ROCK YOUR TASTEBUDS The people behind Campagnola (just down the street in Evanston on Chicago Avenue) have a finger, or two, in the dough over here at Union, and judging by Campagnola's great reputation, it won't be hard to imagine the same good vibes for chilled-out Union. The food is fresh and clean, made from local ingredients when possible, and it's all still pretty affordable. Plus, the music is good without palpable effort, so there's really not any reason why you won't be back. Not a good one, anyway. |
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by David Tamarkin TIME OUT Magazine I approached the restaurant with margheritas on the brain, of course. But the moment I glimpsed it from across the street, pizza took a back seat. Instead, I was enthralled with the stripped-down look of the place: walls that look like they’re still being torn down; the high, exposed ceiling; and all those gorgeous, modern lamps casting the room in a warm, white glow. The pizza had an impressively crispy bottom crust, making it the kind of slice that holds its shape when picked up. The crust around the perimeter was puffy and chewy, and the pie I had was topped with juicy lamb and piquant olives. |
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| by Penny Pollack CHICAGO Magazine Evanston has no shortage of restaurants, but this seems to be the one everyone was waiting for. Under a warehouse-high ceiling, the lounge, bar, and tables fill up fast—even on cold rainy nights. Literary types discuss Remembrance of Things Past over artisan beers, couples delight in meant-to-be-shared eggplant caponata, girlfriends start with orange-marinated olives and roasted beets with candied walnuts, and parents cheer for affordable daily plates like lasagne bolognese.....Union's handcrafted pizza Margherita went on my permanent must-have list. |
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| METROMIX Stunning floor-to-ceiling windows and exposed wooden rafters lend an urban loft feel, and we were dazzled by the dozen-plus glass lights dangling over the bar. Couches and leather cubes near the entrance provide a perch for cocktailers, while a mostly local crowd comprised families, middle-agers, young professionals and dressed-up Northwestern students. From nearly every vantage point, you can spot the wood-burning pizza oven: a domed soapstone behemoth, custom-made by a Vermont craftsman. Our prosciutto and arugula pie featured the buttery meat atop an even more buttery bechamel sauce, crowned with lemon-kissed leaves and shaved parmesan ($14). Fifty wines ring in under $50, with 14 by the glass ($6-$11). A dizzying menu of 26 beers features Dogfish Head craft ales from Delaware, Samuel Smith organic ale from England and several Belgian-style brews. |
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| Conscious Dining | by Tanya Fritz A Perfect Union (Pizzeria) I spent three weeks in Italy last fall, Since I’ve been back, I’ve been searching for good Italian pizza, real Italian pizza. Who knew I’d find the most well-executed rendition of Italian pizza in Evanston, IL, but that is exactly what I found recently at Union Pizzeria. Union’s pizza dough was soft in the middle, crispy on the edges and thick enough be able to hold it’s toppings, but thin enough to let the diner appreciate the chosen ingredients. The crust was a strong supporting role to the simple and subtle layered flavors of mozzarella cheese, tomato sauce and sausage. The entire experience was great for me, and apparently for everyone whom I was in earshot. I’ve been raving about the food at Union to my friends since I dined there, and I’m eager to return. |
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